Over 20,000 km since we left
Salzburg and we're now relaxing on a sandy beach just
south of Madras. The first part of the journey is over
and in just over a week Lucky Luke will be in a container
ready to start the long ocean voyage to New Zealand. Here
in Mamallapuram we aren't just relaxing physically but
also mentally. It's a great feeling knowing that we don't
have to drive on crazy Indian roads any more.
Before we arrived in India we'd heard there are only two
types of travellers, those who love India and those who
hate it. Which type would we be?
The landscape is beautiful and the temples, varied in
style and impressive. Though don't look to closely or
you'll see all the rubbish. The people are also
beautiful, the turbaned men of Rajastahn and the women in
their colourful sarees, but as 40 of them squash their
noses against the front windscreen they don't look so
beautiful afterall.
India is known for it's smells, the smell of incense
lingers in every doorway, whilst on the streets herbs and
spices mingle with the scent of the hundreds of flower
garlands. But crouched by the gutter or standing facing a
wall, the Indian men leave behind a different smell.
India is a loud country which isn't good or bad, it's
just a fact. From every corner shop Hindi-pop is booming
out at a level to drown out the constant hooting of the
busses and rickshaws. A wedding or a funeral procession
pass by with at least ten drummers and as many other
instruments to make as much noise as possible. There's
one sound though that I'm happy to leave in India. It's
that sound that happens on a crowded street....As you're
being pushed along, you hear the man behind you snort in
an effort to clear his entire nose, throat, lungs and
anything else that might have collected green slime. Then
he spits, the sound was so close you can almost feel the
spit running down your back. Not very nice.
But driving through India we discovered the strangest
thing about the Indians, their desire to reach the next
life as soon as possible. As we're driving down the road
with a lorry thundering towards us (this time on his side
of the road). The two men on the bicycle in front swerve
without any warning across the road to pick up their
friend. We narrowly miss a knee whilst the lorry skids
onto our side of the road (avoiding the cow on his side
at all costs). Looking back we realise the bicycle men,
now shaking hands with their friend, didn't notice a
thing. In this story we didn't even mention the three men
on their vespa, the crowd of pedestrians, the potholes
(schlagloecher) and the herd of water buffalo.
So do we love or hate India? Sitting her on a sandy
beach, watching the stars and listening to the waves of
the sea, it's impossible to hate, but is love the right
word?

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